I was a billboard in a former life

One of my amusing purchases that flew back with me from Vietnam was this recycled tote bag, which has since been presented to my cat-sitter.

The store I bought it from, Blue Dragon, I discovered on my first night in Saigon. In their own words, they “specialise in fashion and crafts made from ethnic textiles and recycled materials,” working with artisans throughout Vietnam. What I particularly loved about this bag is that – according to the placard on the shelf – it was a billboard in a former life!

There were many colourful designs and styles, and the only difficulty I had was in restricting myself to buying only one, rather than three.

WHITE FOR WINTER

After my recent post on clothes as sculpture, I was inspired to put together some of my favourite pieces of clothing, all with quite different textures. I love wearing white in winter. The old decree of ‘wearing no white after Labour Day’ that I have often read about in American fashion magazines seems bizarrely restrictive. There are several theories of its origin, but for most people, obeying that law is no longer in fashion.

So from the top, some of my favourites, old and new:

1. A hand-embroidered scarf bought on my recent trip to Vietnam really is a summer piece, but apparently I could get away with it if I was a winter bride and wore it as a veil.
2. This vintage white leather pencil skirt was unearthed at the Salvos and is alarmingly tight at the waist.
3. An amusing skirt by Marty Samuels looks and feels like it is made from crumpled paper. The actual construction is 42% polyethyle, 25% cotton, 22% polyurethane, 11% polyester – meaning I’d probably go up in flames if I stood too close to a heater, so best I leave this narrow, ankle-length skirt for summer also. (It fastens with snap buttons, a sure risk of wardrobe malfunction if I sit down too violently!)
4. Truly perfect for winter, this scarf is formed by four rows of fur pom-poms, very soft and warm.

Hmm, one out of four. Maybe there is something to that rule after all…

Disco Queen

What every young woman with any pretentions to glamour needs right now is a long gown (preferably in a bright colour and made of chiffon) with a built-in diaphanous cloak that she can elegantly swirl around her.

Pictured here on the dance floor, today’s young lady swishes her angel wings like a drifting cloud; her feet however, are firmly fixed to earth and elegantly shod in lolly pink.

What every young woman with any pretentions to glamour needs right now is a long gown…

At some point in the 1970s the Sydney label Silver Star produced this fantastic concoction of pink and green swirls. Then it cost the princely sum of $76 – I know because I purchased the dress with the original label attached. When I bought it from Fat Helen’s in Windsor for a costume party quite a few years ago, I paid $22, which was very inexpensive for the time (the prices there are still very good).

I wondered if the dress had ever been worn before the one and only time I donned it for public delectation? It seems a pity that a few more people shouldn’t see it.

(NB. See the dress from a few more angles in the Out-takes & Extras gallery.)

Clothes as sculpture

Ma Ke's Fall ’07 collection … experiments with tattered finishes, voluminous silhouettes and an earthy palette. From Surface #67, ph: Enrico Dagnino.

I have spent the last few days spring-cleaning my apartment (even if it is the depths of winter here in Melbourne). Recent drastic changes in my life have filled me with a burning desire to de-clutter my life, so I’ve ruthlessly been throwing out all sorts of things. It’s been very liberating. Included in the cleanout was a minute inspection of my wardrobe that resulted in a large donation to the Salvation Army.

Even more drastically, I’ve thrown out fashion magazines!

Even more drastically, I’ve thrown out fashion magazines! Only after, of course, I leafed through them and tore out the pages I wanted to keep. I have a vast library of tear-sheet books accumulated over the last twenty years – and I do look at those.

(Above) Reykjavik-based label Steinunn takes inspiration from Iceland, building collections that feature robust forms and plush custom fabrics. Fall ’07, designed by Steinunn Sigurthardóttir. Page from Surface, ph: Jaime Chard.

Constantly exploring new methods of cutting and draping, Maria Cornejo nevertheless creates a seamless transition between her label's latest fall/winter and resort collections. Images from Surface #62, ph: Koji Yano.

These pages come from various issues of Surface, dating from 2006–07. It caused me a pang to rip them up as they are beautifully designed magazines, but reflecting that I had rarely flicked through them since I first bought them, I set to with a will. (Does anyone who hoards magazines actually ever look at them?)

These designer profiles particularly caught my eye because their garments possess all things that I love: intricate folds and pleating, volume, asymmetry, texture. (You can see the whole of Maria Cornejo and Haider Ackermann's gorgeous current collections at Style.com, as well as past seasons, including the ones pictured above and below.)

Haider Ackermann's collection for Fall ’07 skillfully experiments with a variety of textiles, culminating into a collection that includes: a metallic jumpsuit (not pictured); (02) furtrimmed outerwear; (03) floor-skimming jersey gown; (04) wool tunic paired with vinyl leggings; (05) fitted leather jacket with asymmetrical closure; (06) draped metallic top. Page from Surface #67.

A favourite piece of Ackermann's from Spring/Summer ’06. Page from Surface #67.

…their garments possess all things that I love: intricate folds and pleating, volume, asymmetry, texture.

For years I have vacillated with two extreme looks: minimalism and a bohemian eccentricity. By the former I do not mean the extremes of the purist nineties style. My sort of minimalism involves a reduced colour palette (neutrals combined with shots of bright colour); one simple shape offset by another, more complex one; and the contrast of interesting textures or accessories. In short, anything that is sculptural.

It doesn’t mean all my vintage clothes have been tossed into the trashcan; I will merely be more selective, and only those that fit my criteria … will fit in my wardrobe.

A selection of Ackermann's favourite pieces from his past collections: (02, 03, 04) Fall/Winter ’05–’06; (05) Spring/Summer ’06; (06, 07, 08) Fall/Winter ’06–’07. Page from Surface #67.

What I actually wore #0019

Serial #: 0019
Date: 18/01/2009
Weather: a balmy 25°C
Time Allowed: 5 mins

Sunday brunch with girlfriends; warm day. I wasn’t long back from Dubai, and was still pleasurably enjoying the new additions to my wardrobe. I decided to wear my ‘alibaba’ pants (as I like to call them), so something slim-fitting on top was called for.

The tshirt is from Rich, and is something that I’ve owned for years. I have gone through summers where I like it, and wear it; and summers when it languishes in my drawers. I have at least once rescued it from the charity shop bag.

The bag has such a nice shape and balance for swinging when the sun’s out, too.

As the outfit was all grey tones, I added a bit of colour with a pair of red enamel earrings, splashed asymmetrically with white, and a pair of vaguely Oriental-looking wedges that are piped with red. A present , the Burberry bag clashed fabulously with my tshirt. It’s very little, and fits little more than my wallet, phone and tissues, so will do for occasional outings only. The bag has such a nice shape and balance for swinging when the sun’s out, too.

Items:
Top: Rich
Pants: Staff
Shoes: Unique Shoes
Bag: Burberry
Earrings: from Love It