Puffs Still Speak Volumes

Weren’t these once called balloon skirts? There’s so much volume in this outfit I would ascend like Mary Poppins, umbrella or no umbrella, if I actually wore this in the street.

But this spring’s been so wet I probably would be carrying an umbrella!

No need to be dispirited though: spring’s arrival brings on the racing carnival and a mood of frivolity; and as usual there’s plenty to be had in Melbourne’s boutiques.

And yes, puff sleeves are still well and truly in, as are frills, layers and asymmetrical details.

So don’t be afraid to go bouffant, for after all, I expect you’ll be well-grounded by the fierce heels you’ll be wearing to counteract all this sugar.

Cloisonné Kitties

Whenever I wear these sweet enamel earrings I am complimented, from giggling young beauty therapists in District 1, to more jaded waitresses in Windsor. I rescued them from a jewellery stall at Ben Thanh Market in Saigon. The said therapists were thrilled to learn they could buy their own right there in Saigon, for less than US$5.

Cloisonné is an ancient metalworking technique of pouring liquid enamel into compartments formed by thin bands of metal. It was first developed in the Near East, and then spread to the Byzantine Empire (one of my favourite periods in art) and on to China via the Silk Road. Here are some examples:

Clockwise from top left: cuff, 9th–10th century, Museum of Byzantine Culture in Thessaloniki; Jen Forland Designs earrings from etsy.com; egg cup by Slatikov, Moscow ca 1900; making cloisonné, from cultural-china.com; Water Lilies by Greig Steiner. As for the woven ribbon cushion, I snatched that up at the Salvos for $2. I was rather amused to see the prior owner’s cat had mangled it in patches, overzealously kneading its paws no doubt. An appropriate backdrop for my sedate little kitties then.

À la Nancy Cunard

Well, after doing this shoot, all I can say is that armfuls of bangles are as inhibiting as enormous chopines must have been in the seventeenth century. I practically needed a servant to carry my arms about.

I have always greatly admired Cecil Beaton’s work; 1920s style in general; and Beaton’s portrait of Nancy Cunard in particular (below), her arms bristling with bangles from wrist to elbow.

However, before I could set this shoot up in homage, I had to increase my own collection of bangles in variety as well as number. I had the opportunity to expand it when in Vietnam earlier this year, and bought several wooden bangles, as well as four jade ones: green, purple, black – and finally a red bangle (the most expensive) carved with a fantastic cornucopia of dragons, vines and flowers.

None of them went up to my elbow like Nancy’s unfortunately. Did they make them especially large in the Twenties, or did women have really fat arms? Or is Nancy modelling home furnishings, or perhaps bits of sawn-off piping? I shall always wonder…

Check out the Out-takes & Extras gallery for more pics.
See more of Cecil Beaton's images here.

The Importance of Being Fashionable

I finally saw The September Issue last weekend. I was very much looking forward to it, and was not disappointed – except I could be greedy like my friend Lulue who thought there should have been even more fashion.

As far as a glimpse into what it takes to bring a fashion issue together, I thought it was great, being particularly fascinated by the power play between Anna Wintour and her fashion editors: gasp! Someone’s pages got the chop to make room for another’s! Grace Coddington (and some of her colleagues) were especially shocked when the ‘best’ DPS from a Twenties-styled shoot was axed, but I could see immediately that Wintour was right to do so. As good a shot as it was, it simply did not fit in with the others.

Wintour is criticised for being cold and ruthless, but it is obvious she is an extremely busy woman who has to make decisions expeditiously. Interestingly she states ‘being decisive’ is her greatest strength. To echo Lulue again, how many people can say that?

…“just because you love fashion, it doesn’t mean you’re stupid”.

I was also touched when she spoke of her erudite family, and how they belittled her accomplishments by condescending to be ‘amused’ by them.

As she declares early in the documentary, “just because you love fashion, it doesn’t mean you’re stupid”. Fashion has always been a popular form of self-expression, and it is not immoral to admire beautiful fabrics, or the genius of designers who are passionate about their work – and the legion of artists behind them, whether they are textile designers, journalists, or mere pattern cutters.

In fact, I don’t think one should ever underestimate the importance of bringing a little life, colour and happiness into people’s drab lives – even if it’s through the ‘frivolous’ medium of fashion.

What I actually wore #0025

Serial #: 0025
Date: 09/02/2009
Weather: a cool 21°
Time Allowed: 5 minutes

Monday morning blues… what better way to treat them than with Schiaparelli pink? Especially in the form of brand new patent heels bought the day before from Myer!

I wanted the shoes to stand out, so I chose a grey skirt bought from Staff in Dubai, teamed with what I call my meringue puff top from Veronika Maine. Its asymmetrical, standing collar necessitates an updo, however. Little pintucks gathered together with rosettes create a quilted look on the front and rear panels of the skirt. Both garments utilise fabric with a slight stiffness and pleasing rustle, which enables them to hold their shape.

Monday morning blues… what better way to treat them than with Schiaparelli pink?

I really love the sculptural aspects of both items, and the girly pink heels (matched with bright pink lipstick) offset them just enough.

Items:

Top: Veronika Maine
Skirt: Staff
Jewellery: Roun
Watch: Kenneth Cole
Lipstick: ‘Cherries in the Snow’, by Revlon
Shoes: ‘Devotion’, by Jane Debster