So dashing!

Browsing casually one day through Lady Bloodstone’s emporium, a favourite hatshop on eBay, I came upon this dashing little tilt hat that was so cute I instantly added it to my watch list.

Tomato red: such a happy colour! It looked just like something from a children’s picture book, with its curved calligraphic loops and soutache embroidery. I was unable to resist its allure for many days, and before long I committed to buy.

However, prior to my discovery of this late 30s wonder, the word ‘soutache’ had not been part of my vocabulary. Some research was called for.

I learned from that font of wisdom, Wikipedia, that a soutache is a ‘narrow flat decorative braid, a type of galloon*, used in the trimming of drapery or clothing’. It is often deployed in military and athletic uniforms to, respectively, indicate rank or outline numbers or players’ names. Crafters today are also using it to create jewellery. Originally soutache was woven from metallic bullion thread, silk, or silk/wool blends, although it is also now made from synthetic fibres.

…the original store tags were attached, and read ‘Montgomery Ward, $1.98’…

Lady Bloodstone noted the hat was in very good vintage condition, although the form and trims might require a little reshaping after storage; it also seemed that a veil might once have been attached. There was no label, but the original store tags were attached, and read ‘Montgomery Ward, $1.98’ and ‘100% wool, ADJ’. One dollar ninety-eight! I paid considerably more for the piece, some 70 years later.

When the hat arrived, I saw that the decorative loops did indeed require a little TLC. I procured some matching red thread and sewed them on securely. It didn’t need the addition of a veil, I decided, but just the right saucy tilt on the head to carry it off. And some bright red lipstick. 

* Galloon: a narrow strip of ornamental fabric, typically a silk braid or strip of lace, used to trim clothing or finish upholstery. From the French galon, early 17th century. 

The Amazing Boots

These boots that I pounced upon a few weeks ago are so amazing that I thought they deserved another story dedicated just to them. Here they are in all their glory.

I wore them for the first time on the day I bought them, and I caught a tram into the city. I felt rather conspicuous as I climbed aboard, for a trio of middle-aged men were staring. I tried to ignore them on the short trip into town.

They disembarked a couple of stops later, and as one gentleman (old enough to be my father!) passed me, he paused, tapped me on the knee (the impertinence!) and said sotto voce, “Those are amazing boots.”

Yes. Thanks for letting me know—dad. 

The Long And Short of It

Two pairs of kidskin gloves: shorties beautifully inset with battenberg lace, and divinely soft 22" opera gloves.I am sad to report that gloves are not very much in fashion. On the other hand (pun intended), it is probably a good thing as I would probably have an enormous collection overflowing my drawers and shrinking my bank account.

Ancient Histories

Illustration of Cyrano de Bergerac by Pierre BrissaudOnce upon a time however, gloves were full of meaning: you could throw down the gauntlet if someone jostled you in a doorway or, if insulted, slap your nemesis in the face. You could offer your glove on bended knee in homage – or in a complete about turn throw your glove at the King’s feet to challenge his right to reign. Or you could even lace one with poison and gift it to an enemy, such as was done in the fifteenth century to Jeanne d’Albret, the Queen Mother
of France.

…you could throw down the gauntlet
if someone jostled you in a doorway or, if insulted, slap your nemesis
in the face.

Fair ladies showed favour to their knight by bestowing a glove to be worn in tournament. In eighteenth century Central Europe, gloves signified an exchange of property. Dutchwomen could marry their long-distant fiancés by proxy – standing beside his portrait and clutching his glove – prior to sailing to the East Indies to meet him.

So much more interesting than modern times: we just use them to keep our hands warm. Or even more prosaically, protect them from the evil effects of dishwater, or harsh chemicals and the like.

Short or Long?

The empire-line gown Josephine made fashionable, worn with long (and ruched-down) gloves. Image from ‘The Fine Art of Fashion – An Illustrated History’, by Julian Robinson, Bay Books Australia.Glove length depends upon the occasion. I once read somewhere: the longer the glove, the more formal the occasion. However, historically, sleeve-length has also influenced the length of the gloves.

Over-the-elbow gloves first became fashionable towards the end of the eighteenth century, when Napoleon was rampaging all over Europe, and his Empress Josephine was dazzling fashionable society with Empire-line gowns – and long gloves of course (the better to disguise her ‘ugly’ hands). It was also very fashionable to scrunch them down so they wrinkled attractively.

Around 1810, when sleeves lengthened, gloves grew shorter, but long gloves were still worn with formal dress until around 1825. Then, the Victorian era’s fashionable tendencies towards longer-sleeved gowns made long gloves obsolete – even with shorter-sleeved eveningwear.

The Three Musketeers’ Legacy

Ah, so that’s how they did it! Drawing by Harrison Fisher.Made from delicate kidskin and coloured white, ivory or black, opera gloves are between 19 and 23 inches in length. They have a wrist opening that closes with three pearl buttons (although originally they did not), with three lines stitched across the back of the hand. In French, they are called mousquetaire gloves, and do in fact take their name from the French musketeers, being feminine adaptions of a style in use by these duellists.

The mousquetaire continued to be popular, particularly in the Edwardian period, and became associated with elegance and high class – a far cry from the medieval period. It was considered inappropriate to remove them in public
(far too alluring), so there was no slapping anyone in the face with these. Instead, many ladies made use of the wrist opening and slipped their hands through in order to eat or drink, without removing the glove itself.

Forbidden behaviour: removing gloves alluringly in public. These'd be no good for face slapping anyway.

The Rules for Gloves

Fast forward to the mid-twentieth century. By this time gloves of all lengths and styles were an indispensible accessory. One could not venture out of the house without gloves, but one was certainly permitted to remove them on certain occasions.

Eating, drinking, smoking, playing cards, applying makeup: all were forbidden activities in the 1960s. Bracelets were allowed on top of gloves, but rings were a positive no-no. (For the full list of Do’s and Don’ts, refer to Miss Abigail.)

These days so few women wear fashionable gloves that there are no official tenets governing their deployment…

These days so few women wear fashionable gloves that there are no official tenets governing their deployment: it is more likely simple common sense that will rule – or the whim of the moment. Gloves worn for warmth are cast off once one has reached one’s destination, while those worn for fashion are retained so long as food is not consumed. The former will most likely be stuffed into a pocket, and the latter (hopefully) sedately folded and tucked into a purse.

It is a pity, but there may not be too many opportunities to wear kidskin opera gloves these days, but there is a certain pleasure in owning a vintage pair. Gloves of all kinds are a delight to wear. I for one will not be foregoing any opportunity, even if I limit myself to less fragile pairs – it helps to own lots of these!

Moroccan Fantasy

Just look at that sumptuous umbrella! I love the mix of textured fabrics and prints.

Last week I suddenly decided that I would take that trip to Morocco that I’ve been fantasising about for years. As I googled away excitedly, it suddenly dawned on me that Morocco is very, very close to that other country I was daydreaming about visiting recently (only the last few months): Portugal.

What the hey, why go to only one country when you can go to two? I promptly purchased two Lonely Planet guides. (And with that pricey investment, I simply have to go.) I am so excited I literally jump up and down and clap my hands whenever I think of it – and I haven’t even bought the tickets yet!

I haven’t yet cracked the spine of the Portugal guidebook, but I am steadily reading through Morocco. And the more I read, the more excited I become. The other day, I learned that it is possible to purchase fuchsia leather gloves trimmed in yellow pom-poms in the souqs! Now if that is not a reason to travel, I don’t know what that is… Except perhaps these very dreamy photos by Paolo Roversi for British Vogue. 

Click on images for larger versions.

Pale green and white striped silk coat and voluminous tulle skirt: what a gorgeous combination.

More stripes to love, this time batik stripes that have run slightly. The gold and brick red outfit is gorgeous, and the Chinese Bai hat wonderful.

This Turkish padded hat is so quaint; it makes me think of exotic fairytales.

Polkadots, another favourite are arranged in stripes on this cream organza scarf, and the tasseled necktie wonderfully combined with a pale grey choker.

Three Colours Pink

Rapunzel goes against the dictum that redheads shouldn’t wear pink for once, and purchases a hot pink patent leather purse from Kinki Gerlinki. She has reservations however, as it does not match her red bag at all. In fact, it was not her first choice, but the blue sold out before she could make up her mind to buy it.

On the plus side, pink is more fun than beige (the third option) and it does match her new – and much admired – hot pink nailpolish.