What Lies Beneath

This last week I finally got round to watching season four of Mad Men. There were the usual shenanigans to gasp over and gorgeous vintage fashion to make me drool.

In one of the episodes Peggy strips off, and I was amused by her hefty underwear: there was absolutely nothing pretty, dainty or sexy about her brassiere! It was there to lift and separate, and it did the job admirably. In another scene as she sat down on Don’s office couch, one could see the froth of her crinoline peeping out from the hem of her skirt – a sweeter effect.

Peggy, defiant in her underwearPeggy keeps herself nice with a crinoline

…there was absolutely nothing pretty, dainty or sexy about her brassiere!

That’s what this vintage 50s dress of mine needs to make the pleated skirt bell out. I was first attracted to it by its colour – my favourite shade of robin’s egg blue, with a geometric print. I pounced on it in a Sacred Heart Mission op shop last summer; it’s rare to find a dress from this era that is in almost perfect condition in a Melbourne charity shop. I dressed it up with pretty patent heels that have a little bow on the back of the heel; bright red lipstick (‘Raven Red’ by Revlon); and a French roll (I can do them again now my hair’s shorter).

A man at work glimpsed me loitering by the laser printer, and exclaimed, “You look just like you stepped off the set of Mad Men!” I smiled at the intended compliment, but it’s never my aim to look like I’m wearing a costume. However, a nipped in waist and full skirt will always recall Dior’s New Look, and even more so these days with the popularity of the said TV show.

Of course, I could accessorise the dress differently to negate this effect (being careful not to look like an ‘80s does 50s’ rendition), but these proportions do look right just as they are. 

Image note: the yellow kitchen belongs to the hostel Barcelona Rooms, where I stayed in Barcelona in early June.

Spicing Up Winter

Ugh. So I’ve been back three weeks. Jetlag hit me this time like it never did before. I was exhausted, but I still had to drag myself to the theatre three freezing days a week to perform the duties of my part-time job. I work from home the other days, and these last weeks have been crazily busy. Hence my slackness and reprehensible neglect of SNAP.

Anyway, at least I found some very comfortable shoes to walk in through the frosty Botanic Gardens each morning. I found them in my closet that is. I bought them last summer, secondhand for $12; put them away, and forgot all about them.

I remember I was uncertain about buying them – as cute as a button as they are with their T-strap and nutmeg-coloured suede – I was put off by the then sticky heat of summer. But I had a strong suspicion come the colder months I would be glad of them. I was right.

And now I’m back on SNAP too, hooray!

The Denim Onesies

The Denim Onesie in Porto :: Helga Viking // Ina’s 1969 // No flashI first noticed the extremely amusing denim onesies in Barcelona, worn by dashing fashionistas. I admit I giggled and immediately dismissed them. 

They came in different permutations: long and short, strapless, spaghetti strapped and halter-necked. 

When I moved on to Porto in Portugal, I saw they were very popular on the streets there also. After a few days I found myself warming to them – so much so that I decided to try on a pair! 

I picked a long harem-pant style with a shirred bodice ... But, alas, they did not suit my figure at all. I will have to be content to admire from afar. However, just in case I change my mind, I will be able to have another go, for they will undoubtedly be in Melbourne come the summer.

Stripes & Lights

I absolutely love these two photographs from the old Australian magazine, Follow me. They are such strong black and white images, capturing the light of a summer afternoon so beautifully, and the languorous mood that overtakes one in the heat. The striped zebra theme is cleverly echoed in the open slats of the venetian blinds. I even rather like that halterneck top and pants outfit. Aah, they make me want to sit back and relax.

Name of photographer unknown.

No Colour in the Street!

I found this wonderful little book The Well-dressed Woman’s Do’s & Don’ts in a small bookshop near my parents’ home. It was first published in 1925, and was written by Elise Vallée.

The chapters cover what exactly it means to be ‘well-dressed’ for the 1920s woman; to maquillage or not; the correct lingerie; dressing for one’s figure; what a smart, modern woman’s wardrobe should contain: coats (in particular, fur), hats, dresses, and other accessories such jewellery, shoes and gloves.

The Parisienne

She declares that ‘it could not be denied that the Frenchwoman, or more particularly, the Parisienne holds the undisputed position as the model for women of all other countries’ and ‘[she] may be said to look upon herself as a “Mannequin,” which it is her privilege to display to the world as effectively as it is in her power to do’. 

‘the Parisienne holds the undisputed position as the model for women of all other countries’

To put it simply, the Parisienne carefully assesses and makes the best of what nature has given her, takes care of her person, and dresses for her figure. Above all, she pays serious attention to the details, ‘without which the best and most expensive of clothes will make little impression’. 

Here are some of Elise’s pearls of wisdom:

General style

Don’t think that in buying smart clothes you have done all that is necessary.
Don’t economise on your elastic belts, and Do wear them next to your skin.

Maquillage

Don’t use too fine a powder. Never use a white powder.
Don’t use a greasy lip-stick, or one that gives a brown or violet tinge.
Don’t dye your hair at all if you can make it look nice without.

Wardrobe

Don’t have lots of clothes for the same kind of occasion: it is extravagant and unnecessary.
Never buy cheap clothes; they are also extravagant and dowdy as well.
Don’t wear country clothes in town.
Don’t order coloured suits, unless very dark ones.

Coats

Don’t be hasty in the purchase of a fur coat.
Don’t choose a fancy or elaborate shape, and Don’t have bright linings.
Don’t say black doesn’t suit you until you have tried a black dress [ie, coat] with your face skin as near perfection as you can make it. 
Do wear dark colours in the street. 

Frocks

Never go out in the street without a coat or fur or some sort of wrap over your frock.
Don’t wear colours in the street.
Don’t, as a general rule, wear low dresses to dine in restaurants, or, if you do, never leave your cloak in the cloak-room. 

Hats

Do have your hats made to measure.
Do have a really good milliner and
Don’t change your milliner.
Do wear a brim shaped to flatter your face.
Don’t wear a narrow crown unless your face is pointed.
Don’t wear your hat perched on top of your head.
Don’t wear a tight hat if you have a full face. 

Evening Dresses

Don’t fill your wardrobe with expensive and elaborate evening dresses.
Do be careful that they should not look theatrical.
Don’t wear a mass of jewels; have a few good ones.

Colour

Why were there such strict rules about colour? ‘The well-dressed woman who is sure of her ”Mannequin” [ie, figure or person] should wear dark clothes in the street and keep colours for indoor occasions when she will have the advantage of a softer and more becoming light.’  

Fail!

There are lots more regulations besides. I wonder what on earth Elise would think of today’s fashions? I would fail on several counts: I’ve worn brown-tinged lippy; I dye my hair; I wear colours in the street; and I might own one or two garments that look somewhat theatrical. I do like her rules about milliners though…