What I Actually Wore #0070

Serial #: 0070
Date: 27/07/2012
Weather: a chilly 10°C (apparent 7°C) in the evening
Time Allowed: 20 minutes

Last year, reading international magazines, I learned that it was de rigeur for New Yorkers to forego stockings, even in the depths of winter. I don’t know, maybe these women are hopping from their chauffeured limousines and heading straight up the red carpet into their glamorous parties, but I cannot approve of such goings-on here in Melbourne – not with our arctic breezes blowing in. It’s just too freezing here in winter to go gallivanting about on public transport half naked. So when I was dressing for a party last July I hit a snag (no pun intended): I had no party clothes that were also suitable for travelling.

It’s just too freezing here in winter to go gallivanting about on public transport half naked.

I had recently been watching the Phyrne Fisher murder mysteries, set in 1920s Melbourne, and was inspired by the lustrous fabrics in all the draperies Phryne wore. I took a fringed dévoré silk kimono that I had bought from House of Maryanne as my inspiration and layered. And because one loses most of one’s body heat through the top of one’s head, I wore a 1940s floppy velvet cap (you can see it close up here). That drew the most compliments from party guests. I wore my cashmere coat over all for the commute (and was still freezing), but ironically, I had to remove even the kimono at my friend’s home, the little apartment was so warm and crammed with partygoers.

Items:

Jacket: House of Maryanne
Top: Ada, vintage
Camisole: Enamel
Pants: Dizingof
Over the knee socks: Levanté
Mary-Jane Pumps: Wittner
Coat: vintage
Hat: vintage 40s
Bag: vintage
Necklace, earrings: vintage
Rings: souvenir; Autore pearl ring
Watch: Kenneth Cole

Jet Set

It was the original Queen Victoria who made a fetish of mourning way back when, and who was responsible for Victorian England’s obsession with death: which included jewellery made from human hair, memento-mori photographs (portraits of deceased loved ones), a love of taxidermy and collecting other old dead things, be they trilobites or butterflies pinned to card.

But one of the prettiest manifestations must be jet beaded clothing and accessories. Mourning was strictly observed (read my full story here), but that didn’t mean one could not be fashionable. A jet-beaded collar is one such beautiful, awe-inspiring accessory.

French mourning dress, by Charlotte Duclos, c. 1910; from The Metropolitan Museum of ArtMy modern interpretation of a Victorian style shawl is by Australian label Witchery (or it could have been Sportsgirl – the label is missing), and is just about one of the loveliest things I own – and that’s saying something! I originally purchased it in a charity shop for $25, but by chance I saw it recently in an old marie-claire magazine, and found the original retail price was $100. It really is beautifully made, embroidered with seed and bugle beads and sequins on a very fine net that is almost invisible, yet it has a distinct weight that betokens quality. I like it paired with this silk drop-waist top – it creates a kind of Victorian x Flapper hybrid silhouette.

DetailJust in case you’d like to purchase one of these jet-beaded capelets for yourself, I’ve found a few pretty examples on Etsy for you – just scroll down and click to buy. 

Victorian, black organdie jet embroidered collar, French, c1890-1910; click through to Etsy store La BohemeBeaded capelet, 1930s; click through to Etsy store BohemiennesAntique beaded capelet; click through to Etsy store Mary Beth Hale

Leaf Me Alone

The Vintage Hat Series: 1950s Grecian-style velvet leaf bandeauWood nymphs, or dryads in Greek mythology, were shy little creatures. Except, apparently, with the goddess Artemis who was fond of them. A minor female nature deity – though not necessarily immortal – a dryad is the spirit of a tree. The name is taken from the Greek word, drys, which means oak.

Nymphs were usually depicted as beautiful and amorous young maidens who loved to dance and sing. Often the target of satyrs, their amorous freedom set nymphs apart from the virtuous Greek ladies – from the sound of it they rarely said leave me alone!

Still, I like to imagine they must have worn some pretty Grecian-style dresses and floral garlands in their hair, not too dissimilar to my leafy velvet bandeau. It is a vintage 50s hat I purchased on eBay. When I first came across the auction, I fell in love with it and determined it must be mine. My highest bid wasn’t totally crazy, and in the end I won it for US$31 – a ridiculously low price. It is the perfect hat to wear in a romantic mood through spring and summer. 

A Real Aussie Summer

A real Aussie beach – from Australian Elle magazine, Jan 1999, ph Hugh Stewart

This is my homage to the glorious Australian summer of blue sun and sea and white, white sand, and endless memories of childhoods spent running round bare-legged and free. A terrible drought tortured the country for a decade, ending only recently, and every summer the countryside rages with fires (right now in fact, in country Victoria and Tasmania) and it is water we respect, hoard and hold dear – a fairdinkum Aussie won’t leave the tap running while they brush their teeth! We flock to the beach if we can, or the local swimming pool. If all else fails, a sprinkler and a rubber hose or a wading pool in the back yard will do.

Scroll down, sigh nostalgically, and click on images to view larger versions. I have provided credits where they are known. 

OH! That feeling! – from Australian Elle magazine, Jan 1999, ph Hugh StewartThe view from Aussie designer Trent Nathan’s Pittwater, Sydney home; Australian marie-claire, ph Mike NewlingChildhood memories, kids play, from Donna Hay magazine, ph Hugh StewartSummer scenes, Childhood memories, from Donna Hay magazine, ph Hugh StewartOh that rubber hose – only beaten by the summer sprinkler on the lawn; Aussie actress Rachael Ward, from Australian Vogue, ph Graham Shearer Get your body beach-ready, from Australian marie-claire (?), ph DelvesThe beach house, from Australian Vogue, Jan 1991, ph Monty ColesBeach house with a view, from Australian Vogue, Jan 92, ph Richard BaileyEveryone should have a sunbathing deck like this; this picture is just one of a 30-page fashion editorial from Australian Vogue, Jan 1992, ph Monty ColesSummer sets you free; Country Road advertisementBeach shack; the Hipstamatic Bondi HipstaPak was inspired by this Aussie photographer, Ben Watts Hurtling down the dunes, from Australian Elle, Jan 1998, ph Grey ZisserThat inimitable sound as you plunge into a pool of water, ph Walter Rambaldini

Sun Protection Factor: Variable

Sunscreen :: Wonder // GS-0 // No flash

Here is my very own Battenberg lace umbrella that I purchased new in the mid-90s. I remember carrying it on the beach in Queensland while wearing a cream Fortuny-pleated top and matching wide-legged pants. I had a 20s style bob then too. No-one ever carried a parasol then, even in Queensland where it’s hot nearly all the time. I was stared at a lot that holiday.

Now it’s quite a common sight, even down in Melbourne where the weather is quite variable (four seasons in one day). Just like the SPF of this holey parasol. I’ve even gone out in the morning with this parasol, and come home in the evening wishing it a bona fide umbrella as the weather had turned to rain.

As for that Queensland holiday, I am pretty certain that somewhere there is a photo of me in just that outfit – look out for it in the next few days.

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