Replicant

One of my most-loved films from the 80s is Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner. I have a fondness for sci-fi, and it still remains one of the best, and probably always will. Sean Young’s costumes in the film are fabulous: an 80s take on the 1940s, one of my favourite eras for fashion. There are exaggerated shoulders and wasp waists galore. Filmmakers are rather fond of this 40s noir look for futuristic thrillers, and it does work deliciously.

I love in the film how Rachael starts off so very straight-laced, with precision makeup, and by the end as her world entirely unravels, her hair (previously lacquered smooth) is in a riot of fuzzy curls, and her eye makeup is smudged.

Sean Young as Rachael in Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner (1982)Sean Young as Rachael in Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner (1982)In the scene where Rachael ventures onto the mean streets and shoots Deckard’s would-be attacker, she wears an enormous fur coat with a collar that envelops her and shields her from the clammy air. That huge collar has always put me in mind of Elizabethan collars, although the fabrics used could not be more different.

This Zara puffa bolero, when its shawl collar is flipped up has also always reminded me of the same Elizabethan craze for face-framing collars. The dress – which you can’t see at all – is a vintage 1970s-does-40s black crepe. My diamante earrings are actually vintage 40s. 

Sean Young as Rachael in Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner (1982)

In a Ruffle

Celebrating the Roaring Twenties in a Special Series

Here’s a real flapper silhouette for you: straight and long with a close-fitting cloche on top. Something about the combination of black and white – and silver in this case – seems quintessentially Twenties; minimal and slick. This ruffled woven raffia hat is actually from the 1960s, designed during a resurgence of interest in Art Deco style at that time.

During and after WWII, Art Deco had fallen out of favour not only due to wartime austerities, but also because it was perceived to be inappropriately luxurious. Its influence was felt with the 1974 film version of The Great Gatsby, and we are surely set to see modern flapper fashion with Baz Luhrman’s coming interpretation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s book.

Fashion Notes

I bought the hat from The Victory Theatre on a daytrip into the Blue Mountains when I visited Sydney back in February. The blouse is by Oxford, the skirt Veronika Maine, and the necklace from Eccentrix.

The Horse With the Pearl Earring

The Pearl Ring :: Tinto 1848 // C-Type Plate // Cadet Blue GelI have temporarily crowned my Moroccan stone horse with this pearl and sterling silver ring that I made many years ago. I haven’t worn it for so long because it has been languishing in a plastic envelope, waiting for me to repair it. Three of the pearls had detached. Of course it took me less than five minutes to fix it. I’m sure there’s a lesson in there somewhere, something about casting pearls before lazy people.

Queen of the May

Did you know it’s May Day today? In the northern hemisphere this time of year was traditionally celebrated with dancing around maypoles and the crowning of a May Queen in honour of springtime fertility. The origin of May Day holidays lie in the festivals of Flora, the Roman goddess of flowers, and the Gaelic Beltane.

I am crowning myself Queen of the May today with a vintage 1950s red velvet bandeau bedecked in silk flowers. This gathering of red and white carnations is over-the-top in both senses of the word. 

Queen Guinevere’s Maying, John Collier, 1900

May Day, being a spring festival, is not celebrated in Australia since May falls in autumn (pardon the pun). What a pity, because what silly fun it must be to skip around a flower-bedecked maypole like Guinevere. Amusingly, Wikipedia describes a May Day procession as ‘cheerfully pointless’ – but that’s the point surely? Everyone feels more lighthearted when the sun shines, and when better to throw an alfresco party!

Instructions For the Judicious Use of the Handkerchief

Once upon a time there were so many fashion rules, but like gloves, and hats – sigh – they have been tossed aside for the most part. For instance, the art of wielding a handkerchief has been largely lost, alas. But I say, don’t cast that handkerchief aside like an old tissue! It is a considerable weapon of mass flirtation in the right woman’s hands.

You’ve all heard of that old cliché of the woman who sends her hanky fluttering to the floor, and has men racing from all directions to catch it before it should be sullied in the dust at her feet? I remember some amusing comics of Veronica having both Archie and Reggie at her feet in just such a fashion. But there is a right way and a wrong way to attempt this technique.

Observe: it doesn’t do to appear too arrogant – even the Princess Bride Buttercup learned eventually to mind her manners. Just imagine if it didn’t work: you’d be left with egg on your face. And then you’d really need the hanky, but it’d be all dirty by then. One must always think ahead.

This is better. Subtlety and nonchalance is key. “Oh did I drop my hanky? I didn’t notice. Thank you kind sir for retrieving it for me. Would I like you to treat me to a drink in yonder bar? Why, that would be lovely!” Heap on the flattery. Men lap that stuff up.

Here is what Anne Fogarty, a New York fashion designer said in 1959:

Handkerchiefs have always been a leading feminine weapon, a widely accepted cliché for attracting attention by fluttering or dropping to the floor … tissues and hankies have a separate function. Tissues for utility; hankies for coquetry.

The kind of hanky you choose says a lot about you too. A spotless little white lace handkerchief must meet with universal approval, while a colourfully printed hanky gives quite a different message. A source from 1894, Enquire Within Upon Everything declares:

There is considerable art in using this accessory of dress and comfort. Avoid extreme patterns, styles and colours. Never be without a handkerchief. Hold it freely in the hand, and do not roll it into a ball. Hold it by the centre, and let the corners form a fanlike expansion. Avoid using it too much. With some persons the habit becomes troublesome and unpleasant.

Tears of course are a world-renowned feminine weapon too, but they must be employed judiciously. If you have not yet done so, consider studying the most effective method of crying. Crocodile tears will not achieve your object. This next illustration depicts incorrect usage of a handkerchief. The effect is comical.

It is far better to adopt a suitably woebegone expression while delicately dabbing at the corners of one’s eyes (with handkerchief fanned attractively). Tips: widen eyes slightly; allow lower lip to tremble; catch breath on a little sob. A gentle sniff or two may be endearing and elicit sympathy from the gruffest stalwart. If you can manage a sparkling tear on the end of your eyelashes, even better. Thus the Delicate Flower catches her man and has her way with him!

Margaret Story, a fashion and etiquette writer stated in 1924: Once in a while we see a little lady with ‘a saucy twinkle in her eye’ from whose tailored suit pocket peeps a dainty little lace handkerchief. It is irresistible because we know she ‘knows better’. This, I confess, has me perplexed. Was this generally considered too manly, or too slovenly in 1924? It is always best to avoid any appearance of vulgarity, so I shall leave this to your discretion.

Next time on the SNAP Flirtation channel: correct techniques for little fingers and twisting men thereon. Stay tuned!

Quotations from A to Z of Style by Amy de la Haye (V&A Publishing, 2011)