Gaultier’s Wonderland

Odyssey (nautical striped and mermaid themes)

The Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier
From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk

Ahead of my forthcoming visit to the NGV’s exhibition 200 Years of Australian Fashion in a couple of weekends, I suddenly remembered I had never reported on the extraordinary exhibit of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s oeuvre that showed in Melbourne in October 2014–February 2015: The Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier.

I don’t think I’ve ever before seen such a mind-blowing array of fashion! When I opened the folder of images my heart literally fluttered with excitement as once more I beheld that French visionary’s work. On Sunday I saw the excellent and fascinating documentary, The First Monday in May, the man himself declared (as did Karl Lagerfeld) that he didn’t consider himself an ‘artist’, but simply a designer [of a commercial enterprise]. I don’t know … I think I may beg to differ! Some fashion certainly is ordinary and practical or even pedestrian, but some designers take it to such a high level that their skill and vision is comparable to art.

Punk Cancan (intricately woven leather boots)The travelling exhibition featured over 140 pieces of Gaultier’s work, from his first dress created in 1971 to his latest haute couture and prêt-a-porter collections, as well as costumes and gowns worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Kylie Minogue and Nicole Kidman, and the famous cone-bra lingerie sported by Madonna.

The exhibition design was wonderful and brought the garments to life in seven rooms, each designed to showcase different themes in Gaultier’s work: Odyssey, The Boudoir, Punk Cancan, Skin Deep, Metropolis, Urban Jungle and Muses (you can read about them here). Some of the mannequins had animated faces projected on them (amusing and eerie); there was a moving catwalk and enormous graffiti murals in Punk Cancan; an incredible hall of mirrors in Metropolis; and sculptural effects using stretched white fabric with shapes pushed through in the final Muses room. The audio-visual guide was also excellent, providing much additional information.

Overall, the exquisite detail and construction (and deconstruction) of so many of the garments impressed me the most …

Metropolis (a jaw-dropping, floor-length feather headdress)I asked myself what I might consider my favourite pieces, and I would be hard-pressed to choose. Overall, the exquisite detail and construction (and deconstruction) of so many of the garments impressed me the most: beading, embroidery, delicate lace, intricately woven leather-work – all just so amazing. Not to mention the wonders of Gaultier’s imagination. I did find that I happened to take a lot of photographs of each of the all-white outfits, which does show a clear preference of mine. The Skin Deep (red-lit) section was the smallest, and many of the garments were displayed on a second level, so it was impossible to see them up close – fetishistic gear is probably not my favourite style anyway!

Urban Jungle (an extraordinary headdress made from antique Spanish mantilla combs)Urban JungleI took nearly 200 photos, but I have managed to edit them down to 130 in a gallery that will give you a great overview of all there was to see. I am looking forward to the Australian Fashion exhibition, so stay tuned for a report – and a big gallery no doubt – in a few weeks time! In the meantime, enjoy viewing Jean-Paul Gaultier’s breathtaking work.

Muse (if memory serves me correctly, this was a gown worn by Nicole Kidman

A Thrifty Kindred Spirit

Welcome to Clementine, a stylish woman with an independent and eclectic sense of fashion, a keen op-shopper, all-round lovely person, and a true kindred spirit. Her outfits always catch my eye at our shared workplace, and this floral number she’s wearing had me smiling reminiscently of Eighties fashions.

How did you put this outfit together this April morning Clementine?

I actually packed this outfit into my yoga bag the night before – I was planning to get up and go to an early morning class … but then I slept in. Oops! But it was nice to have an outfit pre-organised. Pre-packing means I need things that won’t crease, and the skirt and cardie are good like that. But I started putting the outfit together around the tights.

I’m enjoying the change in seasons at the moment, and it’s nice to feel snug on these cool autumn mornings. I was a bit stuck on which top to put with it, and then I saw this one on the drying rack – my sister just passed it on to me recently and it actually goes rather nicely with the skirt I think.

The outfit does seem very ‘you’.

Yes it is actually very representative of my whole wardrobe – a lot of op shop finds and ‘pass-alongs’ from friends and family, with a few new pieces thrown in here and there.

When you aren’t pre-packing, how long does it usually take you to get ready?

Time to choose an outfit depends on how awake I am … some mornings I just stare at my options and can’t decide! I guess this was an outfit of convenience more than anything – I really should try pre-packing (or at least pre-selecting) more often.

I bought the heels on the same day I found my antique wedding ring, so I always have happy thoughts when I put them on!

Can you tell us a bit more about the individual items?

The apricot knit top was given to me by my sister; I think it’s from a Postie party.

What is that?

Postie parties are just like Tupperware parties – you shop from someone’s home, and there is a stylist to give advice.

I can’t believe I’ve never heard of them – clothing exchanges, but not this. [You can read more about Postie parties here.] What are your other items? That floral skirt has a particularly retro 80s vibe.

This skirt is from Forever New, from a revival a few years ago. The cardigan doesn’t have a label, but was given to me by my cousin in Italy. I think it belonged to a friend who cleaning out her cupboard, and she snapped it up. It’s travelled all around Europe with me. The heels were from an op shop in Camberwell [an inner-Eastern suburb of Melbourne] – I think they are RMK. I bought the heels on the same day I found my antique wedding ring, so I always have happy thoughts when I put them on!

And what about the stockings that started the whole outfit? I am partial to cable knit too.

They are from Sportsgirl. (Opening in 1948 Sportsgirl is an Australian chain store that has been around for nearly seventy years!)

I know you and I share a love of op shopping (thrifting), but before we get to that longer discussion, tell me where else you shop.

I’m actually struggling with mainstream brands in Australia at the moment – I feel too old for some high street shops, and too young (or too casual) for others. But I tend to buy jeans and pants from Sussan [another Aussie standby, around since 1939], as I find their cuts flattering for me – I like that the waistband sits above the hips! If I’m going past a shop I like, I’ll stick my head in. I rarely go out specifically to find a particular item.

And do you shop online much?

Yes! My favourite shop would have to be Anthropologie – I’ve bought quite a few things online, in spite of the expensive postage. I’ve found almost every item I’ve bought from there to be really well made, and I like that the designs are a bit different to what we find here. I’m a sucker for a beautiful email, catalogue image etc.,which is probably why Anthropologie always wins me over.

They are pretty gorgeous. So: let’s get onto op shopping. Why do you like it?

I’m definitely a browser style of shopper – I just find it very relaxing to flick through the racks. The atmosphere is so much nicer than the bright, noisy stores at shopping centres – the music is usually quirky, the volunteers are relaxed and genuinely pleased to see you – and when you find something unique, you feel like you’ve won the lottery!

I also enjoy knowing that in some small way I’m helping the community a little, by recycling and supporting charity. That’s very important to me.

… when you find something unique, you feel like you’ve won the lottery!

That’s great – you are a woman after my own heart! Good shopping ethics.

When I do buy new clothes, I’m conscious of buying quality items that will last, rather than cheap things that can only be worn a few times – and when I do have a wardrobe cleanout, I take as much as possible back to the op shop. And I’m not afraid to donate a really great piece if I’m honestly not wearing it – because I know there’s probably someone else out there that can enjoy it. And I think it brings good op shop karma!

Is there anything special you are currently looking out for?

I could currently use a couple of new tops for work – but I’m sure I’ll find them at some point. I’d love to support more independent Australian designers, but I haven’t found a style I love at a price I can afford just yet. But I’m keeping my eyes open.

On that note of hope, Clementine you bright young thing, I shall thank you for agreeing to appear on the pages of SNAP. Happy treasure-hunting!

No Regret Purchasesssss

When I spotted this snakeskin navy handbag in a thrift store a couple months ago, I found it irresisssstible. It is vintage – Fifties, I am guessing – and in beautiful condition. I walked around the store carrying it knowing full well that I did not at all need it, but I was unwilling to abandon it to the indifferent care of some perfect stranger.

Once upon a time the colour alone would have put me off – I used to dislike navy because it was too corporate; I associated it with conservative skirt suits worn by severe businesswomen. However, something unexpected happened to me a couple of years ago: the scales dropped from my eyes and suddenly navy was sophisticated, elegant and alluring to me!

… suddenly navy was sophisticated, elegant and alluring to me!

There is no label inside, but it is ssssertainly well-made and constructed, with snakeskin even trimming the pockets inside. And the fact that it is snakeskin does away with any conservative connotations. It is a ssserious handbag; discreet; for a woman and not a girl; and though I have not worn it out yet, I have no regretssss! There are some things that are just too beautiful to leave behind.

Photo: April 2016

Time Waits for No Fashionista

Feast your eyes upon this beautiful and buttery soft light grey leather moto jacket for a moment …  Be astonished and elated when you learn that I purchased it for a trifling sum – $15 – in a charity store! Sigh with anticipation on hearing how I waited with bated breath until the seasons turned and the temperature was right to don this garment with appropriate reverence …

And then weep and gnash your teeth in lamentation as you look upon its ravaged surface, wantonly desecrated by some unseen and malignant foe! Let us mourn together!

weep and gnash your teeth in lamentation as you look upon its ravaged surface …!

For a thing of beauty is not a joy forever, as the poet John Keats so optimistically phrases it. I cannot hazard a guess as to what distressed this leather so that such disastrous holes formed on the back of the jacket. The blistering and cracking was visible on the arms too, and it was easy to see that more tearing would occur with only a little encouragement.

This was worse than the time I gently hand-washed the vintage cashmere cardigan and watched the pearl coating float off the beadwork, or the time in my green youth when I washed a fringed silk shawl too vigorously and tangled the long fringing past redemption … then I could blame my ignorance.

Yet this time I had done nothing but hang the jacket in my closet! I was very disappointed since I had not had a chance to even wear it once.

We all have those beautiful clothes in our closets that we save for a special occasion – and we shouldn’t. I am sure you’ve heard this dictum before, but at the sight of this particularly abject lesson, you must surely be convinced.

Wear the antique silk gown you inherited from a stylish great-aunt, slip on those bejewelled cobalt silk Manolos you have hidden on the top shelf in your wardrobe waiting for their moment in the sun (ahem, that’s me), don sequins and satin from nine to five – don’t save them for a time that may never come.

Like ephemeral mayflies that live only from sunrise to sunset, some pleasures last only for the shortest time and ought to be enjoyed without delay. Seize the day!

Photos: December 2015

What I Actually Wore #115

Serial #: 0115
Date: 10/04/2013
Weather: 25°C / 77°F
Time Allowed: 10 minutes

This outfit is a pick‘n’mix of quite a few vintage eras! It’s just as much fun mixing decades as it is clashing patterns. I was quite gratified, too, at the end of the day on my walk home through the botanic gardens, when a woman walking her dog told me I looked fabulous, like someone in a French film.

I am covering the Thirties, Fifties, Sixties and Teensies in this ensemble. The white straw hat is the oldest piece, and I remember the pleasure of buying it on eBay: it was a Buy It Now auction, and there had been more than one offer made, which had obviously been refused. I was surprised, for the asking price (around $30 if I remember correctly) for a hat of that age and good condition was not high. On the contrary, experience had taught me that was very low. I took great enjoyment in immediately clicking the BUY IT NOW button, wondering who I was disappointing. Snooze, you lose!

The Fifties coat is a standout cobalt colour. I love the three-quarter sleeves and the funnel collar. It has a matching dress too, the short sleeves of which I had altered to cap length after I tore one of them on a fireside poker after slipping and falling at a wedding (I was not all that inebriated either)! Anyway, the knee-length shift dress looks much better with the cap sleeves, so it was a fortuitous accident.

The Fifties coat is a standout cobalt colour … it has a matching dress too

I have very often carried that vintage Sixties patent bag, and it has featured many times in this journal. Despite being made of mere vinyl, it has lasted the test of time and is still in quite good condition. The grey leather shoes, by Finsk, were relatively new. I still remember when the package arrived at work, and how I struggled to deal with the multitude of straps – I felt like one of Cinderella’s sisters.

Underneath the dress I was wearing a printed Marni blouse, since given to my sister, and a finely-striped mint and white skirt that I donated to charity a year or so ago (I did not photograph them in this instance). All the other items are still present and accounted for in my closet.

Items:

Top: Marni
Skirt: Veronika Maine
Coat: vintage 1950s
Hat: vintage 1930s
Earrings: vintage 1950s
Watch: Kenneth Cole
Handbag: vintage 60s
Shoes: Finsk

Photos: April 2013