What is ruching?

What is ruching? A friend recently revealed her abysmal ignorance on this important sartorial question. A decorative sewing technique, ruching is perhaps most familiar to us today in the form of hideous 80s shot-taffeta prom dresses, and those crinoline-wearing plastic dolls that cover the extra roll of toilet paper in suburban bathrooms (I’m sorry, I couldn’t find any pictorial example of these).

It is also the most commonly misspelled word of all sewing techniques – ‘rouching’ seeming to be the most popular incarnation, with ‘rusching’ coming a close second.

Put simply, ruching is the gathering of fabric or ribbon on two parallel sides, that is then stitched to an underlying fabric to form ruffles, scallops or petals. The knit top by Anthropologie above has no underlay however; the fabric is gathered with elastic. To ensure even gathers, modern tailors use a plastic guide to mark the zig-zag pattern that will afterwards be stitched. Historically, seamstresses would have used a similar tool.

This classic 80s ruched party dress from Gravel Ghost Vintage sold on Etsy early last yearThis form-fitting shape is quintessentially 1980s – click to buy at Zwzzy now!Ruching was an extremely popular technique in the 19th century, when it was used to decorate all items of women’s clothing including hats and petticoats, although it has been around for many years, possibly even as far back as medieval times. The technique also made a resurgence in the 1950s, more often than not in formal gowns and ruched gloves, as in the 1980s. Most familiar is horizontal ruching, but vertical ruching is far prettier in my eyes simply by virtue of its rarity. However, vertical ruching should not to be confused with multiple rows of gathers, which would more correctly be defined as shirring.

There you have it. I gather the confusion is all cleared up now.

Read more about the history and techniques of ruching at Wise Geek.

This ruched gown hung with swags was popular with 1950s debutantes – and beskirted toilet-roll holders; gown available at Etsy store Vintage VortexA couture gown of the 1950s features vertical ruching on the bodice; gown from Posh Porscha on Etsy

Put on Your Red Shoes

I have liked the Facebook pages of a number of shoe emporiums, news that should surprise nobody. One of them once posed a question about red shoes, and one lady remarked what could anyone possibly need with more than one pair of red shoes?

Dear lady, it’s not a question of need, I could have explained to her. It’s desire of course. There is something bewitching, something utterly entrancing about red shoes. I am always attracted to them; they make my heart go pitter-pat, and I own many. Some I have worn to death and sadly had to lay to rest in the trash – unlike poor Moira Shearer in the film The Red Shoes, at least they didn’t dance me to my grave.

There is something bewitching, something utterly entrancing about red shoes …

There were the enchanting three-quarter red boots with little tassels swinging at the sides, and the low-heeled pumps that walked their little soles out for me. I shall always remember them fondly. And how could I forget the strappy cherry-coloured sandals of my childhood that twisted into a knot on top? There is an old photo of me wearing them, dressed up for a family wedding with my hair curled and pleased as punch with my beloved red shoes.

These 40s style raspberry red suede heels are by Wittner, and I bought them last year. I love them so much I wish I had purchased two pairs. The first time I wore them (to view the Grace Kelly exhibition last winter) I was in agony, but I have since worn them in and they are quite comfortable. Comfortable enough to dance in because let’s face it, red shoes are made for just that. David Bowie said so. 

Ode to Yellow Beads

A Bead Tragedy :: Lucas AB2 // Dylan // No flashI remember when I bought these beads. I saw them there, in the op shop cabinet, all shiny and new wooden and old and it was love at first sight. Graduated beads, the largest of which is almost the size of a golf ball, are very hard to come by these days, old or new. And certainly not in yellow. They wanted $10 for them. I gave it to them without argument.

And now look, there they lie: all in pieces, like my heart.

I was at a celebratory drinks celebration thing (who cares, whatever, my beads broke) with work colleagues when all of a sudden the beads hanging around my neck just collapsed and went tumbling to the floor. Everyone instantly sprang to the rescue. Once the excitement was over, I, of course, immediately saw the photographic possibilities.

And don’t worry, I restrung the beads on some good, stout leather and they are as good as new. Or old. Whatever. If only hearts were as easy to mend.

A Photographic Opportunity :: Lucas AB2 // Dylan // No flash

Eyelet Them Alone

I’m not convinced about eyelets as a decorative device. Buttons, I can tell you immediately, I loathe, particularly when formed into jewellery (although trompe l’oeil buttons do not offend me – you know, those buttons that masquerade as functional buttons on pocket flaps and such but don’t actually do anything). As far as studs go, I’m Switzerland. I don’t hate ’em, but I don’t love ’em either.

Technically these little metal rings are called eyelets when they are used in shoes, but grommets (an unfortunate name that rhymes with something else I won’t mention) when utilised in clothing. Either way, though, I’m not sure of them. I decided to take some eyelets for a test-drive in the form of decorative yoke on a white silk tank. But the top is actually too big and shapeless on me, so now I can’t make an informed decision about the eyelets themselves.

But perhaps if the eyelets formed a kind of sculpture, like these Ferragamo high heeled sandals …

Ferragamo’s nude 110mm Sharon suede ankle sandalsWow-eee!

Tommy Hilfiger grommet steel drop earringsMichael Kors has also used grommets in interesting ways, such as this lime green handbag, and I adore this Coach Legacy duffel for its colour contrast. Over on Modcloth’s site, the dress with the oversize grommets is really striking too (it makes my tank top look kind of pathetic). The Tommy Hilfiger steel earrings are elegant in their refined simplicity, and the J.Crew belt shows a unique take on eyelets – most belts simply feature a single row of oversize rings, but this version overlaps the grommets to create a futuristic kind of armour.

Michael Kors lime green pebbled leather tote and Modcloth dressCoach Legacy Collection duffel bagJ.Crew overlap grommet belt

All of these items I have picked out have one thing in common: they are minimalist. The circular shape of the grommet lends itself to this look, and is far more appealing to me than creatively grommeted corsets, for instance (shades of medieval tavern serving wench).

However, if you want to look really, really classy for a night out on the town, you just can’t let these alone …

Eyelet eveningwear from Clubwear Central

Rrrrrrr!

Claire Danes in VersaceI didn’t watch the Golden Globes. I thought about it, momentarily, and then I decided I couldn’t be bothered. I did spend an hour or so perusing the pictures today though. My overwhelming impression? Just way too much beading everywhere. It looked like a glass bead factory had erupted all over Hollywood. And too much froth. And mermaid gowns. And the worst trend of all? The transparent mini/maxi, which looks nothing so much as though the designer just couldn’t make up his or her mind whether to go short or long. Ugh. Let’s take a pair of shears to these and be done with it.

And the worst trend of all? The transparent mini/maxi …

There seemed to be a great many nude, peach or off-white gowns too. I rather like nude as a colour, although it can be difficult to pull off without looking washed-out. (Note I did not say naked – that’s sorta the point, right?)

Marion Cotillard in DiorWhat caught my eye however was all that rrrrred! These simpler lines are much more appealing to me – they’re like a fresh breeze in that sea of froth, not least because of their striking colour. Although I do prefer the fluid, narrow shapes to the 50s style ballgowns – the positively glowing Claire Danes looks particularly gorgeous – they are all arresting. There were a few darker shades too – garnet (Jennifer Garner and Miranda Kerr) and oxblood (Naomi Watts, Amy Poehler). But if you dare to wear red, make it scorching, I say.

See a comprehensive 75-pic slideshow here.

Jennifer Lawrence in DiorZooey Deschanel in Oscar de la Renta